Saturday, 1 January 2022

Munsyari-Manila-Kaladhungi Trip Report(Nov-2021)

Being a birdwatcher, I am always excited to visit mountains. It was early June when I thought of going to Munsyari this year . Munsyari means "Place with Snow". Before going I checked lot of images on web about this place and scenic beauty it offered. I have also taken some shots, but seeing them with eyes is always beautiful. 

The beauty of the place and the journey experience made me write this trip report. Special thanks to Rajesh Panwar & Sheela Panwar for organizing this trip. 

Following was the planned Itinerary

Delhi - Ramnagar by Train and drop to Kaladhungi (base location)

Kaladhungi to Chaukori (1 Night)

Chaukori to Munsiyari (3 Nights)

Munsiyari to Kaladhungi (1 Night)

Kaladhungi to Manila (2 Nights)

Manila to Ramnagar and back to Delhi (By Train)


Day -1 (23-Nov-2021) Kaladhungi-Choukori

Although the plan was to board train from Delhi and reach Ramnagar followed by Kaladhungi, had to change my plan due to some issue and I reached one day before by car from Bareilly. On 23-Nov I was joined by 4 of my group members (Mr. Somnath Goswami, Ms. Pampa Mistri , Mr. & Mrs. Ganesh Rao). I was also accompanied by 2 of Bird Watching guides Ms. Sheela Panwar & Mr. Vivek Rawat. Rajesh Panwar (husband of Sheela Panwar) was also having his group with him on same dates, so they were also in separate cars along with us.


Kainchi Dham


We left Kaladhungi at around 6:30 AM in morning so that we can have birdwatching on the way. We left and first stop was at Kainchi Dham. It used to be a good habitat to see Brown Dipper, Spotted, Slaty backed and little forktails, Plumbous water redstart, white capped redstart, crested kingfisher and many more species. But this time the habitat was destroyed due to recent flood in Uttarakhand. These birds live on the vegetation which grow at edges of small water streams. We could not sight much of the birds at this place and had breakfast at Maruti restaurant. They served Mix Paranthas with curd followed by milk tea in breakfast. Breakfast was fresh and served hot and was good in taste.

Bal Mithai & Singori Uttarakhand Special Sweets.


We left from Kainchi and keep on stopping where we observe the activity of birds is there. On the way Rajesh Sir purchased Bal Mithai, Chocolate and Singori from Latwal Sweets. Bal mithai is famous chocolate fudge type sweet prepared from milk and then white sugar balls are rolled on top of it. While Singori is khoya wrapped in special leaf which increase the life of it and Chocolate is chocolate fudge without sugar balls. All of them are super amazing and worth trying.


Choukori


We had lunch on the way and reached Choukori in evening. Our stay was at Ojaswi resort and excellent property. The rooms were very much clean, garden was very well maintained with lot of flowers blooming and the terrace has very good view of Trishul, Mrigthuni, Maiktoli, Devistam, Panwali Dwar, Nanda Devi, Changuch and Nanda Kot Peaks. We had dinner at resort, and it was very good preparation of north Indian cuisine along with desert. Post dinner we went for owling.










Brown Wood Owl
Our prime target was Himalayan Owl which use to call from inside property, since there were no calls from him, we went outside in search of it and end up having very good encounter with Brown Wood Owl. It was sitting in open, and we had very good view and photograph of it. It was kind of perfect perch on a branch of tree which was on top of the road.





Day -2 (24-nov-2021) Choukori-Munsiyari


White-Tailed Nuthatch
We woke up early and plan was to go for birdwatching first in around resort only. There were 2 groups one being led by Rajesh Sir and one by Sheel Mam along with Vivek . So we took the different trails and went for exploring. We spend around 2 and half hour doing birdwatching.


We went near the Ashram where we saw couple of white-tailed nuthatches. They were very kind to give us faboulous clicks .


Blue-Fronted Redstart
A bit ahead we could see bushes which are perfect habitat for accentors and we get to see Rufous breasted and black throated accentors their. A single Collared owlet was calling from top of the tree as well. It was bit cold in the morning and sun was about to rise and we could see the snow capped peaks from the open ground above the Ashram. A male Blue-Fronted redstart was sitting in front and posing for us in good light.



Pink-Browed Rosefinch
While returning back a flock of 11 common wood pigeon front above us. Near the resort we stopped for mixed hunting flock of Pink-Browed Rosefinches, Russet Sparrows, Rock Buntings, White-Capped Bunting, Black Throated Tits, Green Backed Tits, Bar-Tailed Treecreeper , Brown Fronted woodpeckers and some other birds.





We had breakfast in resort while enjoying the beautiful sunrise from roof of the resort. It was Poori Sabzi, Poha, Bread and eggs along with Tea & Coffee.  Post breakfast we left for Munsiyari.


The way to Munsiyari is amazing, you will get to see lush green water of Ram Ganga river on left side and tall mountains on right side. You got to cross lot of valleys during this way and road is single road.



We had our lunch at Cutie a small place before Birthi Falls, there are limited food options at this route and all restaurant serves basic food like Dal, Sabzi roti, chicken roti and plain rice. Around cutie we also get to see northern goshawk hovering over us.







On the way we get to see massive cascading waterfall known with name of Birthi Falls. It is a huge waterfall so it appears pretty clear from quite a distance in Pithoragarh district of state Uttarakhand. Fresh atmosphere, cool breeze, lush greenery, and all natural environment are some key attractions of the waterfall region.


Evening session was mostly on the way birding only . Some notable sightings were Large-Billed leaf warbler, chestnut headed tesia, little forktail, spotted forktail, spot winged rose finch, dark breasted rose finch and a male Himalayan Monal. Light was quite dull by the time we reached Munsyari so I preffered for birdwatching with Binocs to see those beautiful birds.


We reached hotel (Vijay Mount View) at around 7 PM. The sky was not clear, and it rained for some time but before sleep I could see stars in the sky.


Day-3 (25-Nov-2021) Munsiyari


I woke up at 5:30 AM in morning. Since it rained last night, I wanted to have quick check on weather, and it was cloudy. It was a bit of setback since there will be less bird activity due to cold weather. Post fresh up, had my Tulsi green tea and prepared my gear for birdwatching session.


Pheasant Point (Near Khaliya Top Trek Starting Point)


Himalayan Monal
At 6:15 AM we left from hotel and start moving towards pheasant’s point(near start of Khaliya Top Trek). In past, there are records of Satyr Tragopan, Cheer, Koklass and Himalayan Monal from here. As we reached there, we started hearing calls of Koklass pheasant. One pheasant calling from above the mountain and whole group was trying to spot it. We waited for about 30 minutes and then I decided to approach it by climbing the hill. Thought light was very poor just want to see it as it was a lifer for me and finally, I get to see a female Koklass pheasant in the bush but couldn’t photographed it. Along, with that I saw Rusty-Flanked treecreeper and Mistle thrush in same forest patch.


Kalamuni Top & Raata Paani


Bearded Vulture
We started moving ahead to our next point slowly observing the surroundings, which was Kalamuni top, spotted laughing thrush is being reported from this place we spend some time but we couldn't see it their. Since it was foggy and cold at Kalamuni top we started towards Raata Paani which is at lower altitude in hope of getting clear skies. We reached Raata Paani. It was quite cold and cloudy, but we saw sunrays coming. Coming sunshine brought the new hopes as we had our fingers crossed to see the bird activity.


We had breakfast in hope that light will get better in the mean time. We had Bread toasts, eggs and poha along with milk tea in breakfast. Tea was feeling nice in cold weather.


As we were hoping, we could see activity in the area. We get to see lo of Pink Browed and common
Eurasian Wren
rose finches feeding on the ground along with rufous breasted accentors .
Then I was scanning the area and saw something like wren babbler kind of bird, and it went away. I tried to explain my fellow members, it has scaled on the body and small size.  Sheela mam confirmed it as Eurasian Wren and it was lifer for me. It always feels special to spot a bird and it turns out to be a lifer. While we were scanning the field, Sheela mam observed bearded vulture flying behind us and it was so close. The beard was hanging over the beak, it was hell of a sight.


Ginni Bend


Himalayan Woodpecker
Next we moved towards Ginni Bend and activity was good. I spotted Red headed bull finch. We saw Himalayan Woodpeckers cracking a nut into the hole in a tree, Lemon Rumped warblers, Buff Barred warblers, Eurasian Sparrow Hawk ,Mountain Hawk eagle and Himalayan Vultures hovering above us.

At this time of cherry blossom is in full bloom, whole pink flowers and it is always a sighting to see rose-finch on this tree. It was more of a blissful moment seeing rose finch over cherry blossom.



Alpine Accentor
We started back towards hotel and expected to get some vultures on the way since sun was coming out. Suddenly we say Sheela mam’s car is stopped and she is saying “I have heard Alpine Accentor’s call”. Yes, it was a single bird and we had excellent view of alpine accentor. Leaving from there we had excellent view of Bearded Vulture, Eurasian and Himalayan Griffon. First time I saw Bearded Vulture sitting on the tree .
Valley view was at its best. Clouds and sun were kind of playing Hide and seek .


Reached hotel and we were served with traditional lunch of Kumaon. It was special roti made of Ragi Floor and local Rajma. It looked like a sumptuous meal.

Evening session is short in mountains, so it was place near to hotel. Still the session was very good with notable sightings of black throated , rufous breasted accentors, European gold finches, Gray sided bush warbler and fire fronted serins Light become poor at 4:15 and we came back to hotel by 4:45.



The day ended very good despite bad weather, we had tea in evening in our rooms and had dinner at 8:00 PM with entire group of Rajesh Sir & Sheela Mam. We also get some sweets today since it was first marriage anniversary for Vivek Rawat 😊. Due to power outage in Munsyari, all the shops were closed at 7 PM.



Day-4 (26-Nov-2021) Munsiyari


Towards Madhkot


Chestnut-Headed Tesia
Woke-up at 5:30 AM and it was a clear morning. Could see the Panchchuli peaks from the hotel room. Had morning tea at 6:00 AM and got ready by 6:15 AM for the day. We left the hotel at 6:30 AM sharp towards Madhkot road. We stopped on the way to get our photographs with the peaks, it was splendid to see the peaks in sun. While we were moving, we heard calls from chestnut headed tesia and scaly-breasted cupwing. We were lucky to get both in open. Got excellent clicks of both the birds and we moved ahead on the way.


Due to clear weather, we were able to see the peaks clearly from Munsyari. Panchahuli peaks are best visible from Munsyari where they seems to be very close to you. It was quite cold in morning and we have to put on 3 layers today . Even in sunlight the breeze was quite cold.

















Upland Pipit
On the way, rocky mountain came on left side and it seems to be the perfect
habitat for upland pipit. After scanning the are we were able to spot 2 Upland Pipits. They were quite use to humans. They keep on hovering around us on the mountain slopes. We were able to get good shots of them.








Slaty-Headed Parakeet
While we move ahead we also get to see hodgson’s
tree creeper, scarlet finch male and females, around 25 slaty headed parakeets feeding on cherry blossom flowers. It was a pleasant sight to see parakeets feeding on full blooming cherry blossom flowers. They will pluck some to eat and some will fall on the ground.



Aberrant Bush Warbler
At the same spot we heard call of aberrant bush warblers. Couple of them were calling from dense under-growth by the road. So we use playback couple of time and they come in open for few moments and we managed to get some clicks of them. Along with them
chestnut-tailed minla, Himalayan shrike-babbler, bronze drongos, common wood-pigeons, and other common birds were seen on the way.


Around 12:30 we came back to hotel for lunch break. We had traditional food today as well it was black soyabeans (known as bhatt ki churkani in Kumaon) . If you are visiting Munsiyari this is must try.


By 2:30 PM we left for same place where we did bird yesterday and it was good session for photographing the birds since light was good. We came to hotel and had tea in the lobby area together. Dinner was served at 7:30 PM. It was going to be the last night in the hotel, so we all packed our stuff and 6:30 AM was the time to leave next day.



Day-5 (27-Nov-2021) Munsiyari-Kaladhungi



Coal Tit
This day we planned to return to Kaladhungi along with Rajesh Sir & Sheela Mam. Myself, Somnath Sir and Pampa Mam got into Rajesh Sir’s car and Sheela mam was along with Mr & Mrs. Ganesh Rao. We started our journey and first bird of the day was Peregrine Falcon. In and around there was good activity and we get to see and photograph White-Browed Fulvetta, Stripe-Throated Yuhina, Gray Crested Tit, Yellow-Browed Tit, Green Backed Tit, White-Tailed Nuthatch and Coal Tit in mixed flock.


Long-Billed Thrush
Just after the Kalamuni Top, near the bend their was waterstream and Rajesh sir was telling this is habitat for Long-Billed Thrush. The moment he said I spotted one on his right side. He was not able to see since it was damn close to the car. Quite evident why it is called as Long-Billed Thrush.

Around Raata Pani village, couple of Golden Bush Robins One Male and One Female were spotted. Spot-Winged rose finches, dark breasted rose finches and common rosefinches are also their in abundance.



Snow Pigeons & Goosanders


Common Mergansers
Post amazing breakfast at cutie, we left from there and had encounter with a flock which looks like pigeons. On carefully checking from pictures that was flock of snow pigeons. There is a beautiful pine forest on the way, and it is a home for common wood pigeons we stopped and scanned. On one tree we could see 18 of them.


On the way, river come really close to the road and Rajesh sir spotted 3 Male Goosanders, although they took a flight immediately, but we were able to see them swimming few meter ahead against the current. We reached Kaladhungi at 9:45 PM. It was a tiring journey but amazing journey in terms of scenic beauty and bird activity. We had dinner at Turning point restaurant and spent night in Bird & Bees resort.


Day-6 (28-Nov-2021) Kaladhungi -Bohr Reservoir – Manila


After a good night sleep, we were all set for our morning session around kotabagh trail which is 20 km from Kaladhungi.


Immaculate Cupwing
After reaching kotabagh we tried for Nepal wren warbler(Immaculate Cupwing now) at its usual space. The space moist habitat and there are lot of small bushes. First one to come out was whistler’s warbler followed by abbérant bush Warbler. After trying for some time Rajesh sir told let us go back try down it has moved there. When we were turning our car suddenly, I heard the call of Nepal wren warbler and decided to stay and ask Rajesh sir also to come back.


After trying for few minutes, it come out in open to see us. It was quite ample time for recording its call and getting some good shots of it. It was hard luck with Gray Crowned Prinia so we started back at around 11 AM.


We came back from their and went to see Rajesh’s house. Such beautiful location inside the house you can see the wall which was made by Corbett himself and mountain view from the window. They have put photographs of birds clicked by them in main hall. Outside the house a garden with lot of flowers and beautiful lawn is there and it is managed by Sheela mam herself.


We came to hotel and got ourselves freshen up and head towards Bohr reservoir. We planned to spend evening session there. We had awesome lunch at Desi Haveli a village theme-based restaurant .

Bristled Grassbird
Around 4 pm we reached Bohr reservoir and scanned the area. We got to see common water fowls, moustached warblers, Bristled grass bird , brown shrike , smoky warbler and other common birds. We left at around 6 pm and started for Manila. The journey was tiring due to lot of construction going on since recent flood has damaged lot of infrastructure.


In the evening we reached Manila around 7:30 PM. After keeping our luggage in the Hotel, we left for checking for Mountain Scops Owl. We spent around 30 minutes tring for it but due to distrubance on the road it didn't turn up. We came back to hotel and had our dinner followed by a nice sleep.

Day- 7 (29-Nov-2021) Manila 

Blessed with scenic beauty, Manila is nature lover's paradise as it offers enchanting views of Trishul, Panchachuli and Nanda Devi peaks. The dusk and dawn are mesmerizing from here as the crimson hues drapes the Sun God like a beautiful garment. 

The entire day was focused to cover forest patches of Manila. It has got lot of focus by birdwatchers this year due to budding population of Cheer Pheasants and Koklass pheasants. All credit for Manila discovery goes to Rajesh & Sheela Panwar.


We stayed in Kaafal Buransh and from there we could see the beautiful sunrise in the morning. The entire sky looked to be painted orange in early morning. Took the morning tea in Hotel and left for birdwatching. Their are two trails in Manila one towards bus stand and one other side. We went on the other side trail today and Koklass is seen in this trail. After spending around 3 hours in the field , first car went ahead while we stopped for checking around for some more time. 

Cheer Pheasant
I came out of car and started scanning the vicinity. To my surprise a Cheer Pheasant sat in front of me on the tree stump. I asked Somnath dada and Pampa Mam to bring their cameras. We got beautiful shots of it. It was clearly sitting in front of us and after clicking few photographs our driver's phone rang and it went away. We asked other car to come back and we searched their from 30 more minutes but it was no where seen their. But I was sure to have more species here since I could hear calls from them as well. 

We reached Hotel and had our lunch. Rested for an hour and left for exact same place which we covered in morning to check for Cheer Pheasants. After spending around 20 minutes I was able to find 4 of them hiding in dry grass . I counted total of 7 of them their. They started continously calling after some time and starting to descent. It looked like , they want to cross the road and go to otherside in valley. We were so lucky to witness them crossing the road and the entire evening we spent seeing those majestic cheer pheasants. It was mixed flock of adults and juveniles. We reached hotel at aroun 6 PM and had tea in the dining room. We rested for some time in the cottages and come back for dinner at 8:30 PM. Post dinner I packed my stuff and slept. 

Day -8 (30-Nov-2021) Manila – Kaladhungi


It was last day of the trip plan was to do morning session in Manila and then come back via Corbett to Kaladhungi.


Around 6:15 am we left the hotel and tried for Eurasian Woodcock since everyone has already seen Koklass pheasant. We scanned the area for 3-4 times but couldn't spot it there. After that we left for other side trail and found couple of Koklass phesants and Himalayan Buzzar their. Koklass were calling from the tree and it was sitting at bottom of it. We spend sometime their in hope of getting some good shots of it, but hard luck. We had breakfast there and left from Manila.

We came back to resort at 11 am and left for Corbett park. On the way we stopped at Bakhrakot Stream to check for gray bellied tesia. It was calling from inside but not coming out. The habitat is mostly destroyed due to lot of traffic and commercialization of entire place. The place has not over 100 resorts with range from 1000 to 20000 per night.

Garjiya Temple on Kosi River Bank

Ibisbill
Garjiya temple is situated on the bank of Kosi river. Ibisbill a beautiful bird every year comes here and spend the winters. The bank is full of rocks and it is hard to spot ibis bill in those rocks. After 40 minutes of rigorous effort I was able to find two of them. I was able to photograph it and make small video of it.

Then we left for Ramnagar station and time was to see off Somnath sir and Pampa Mam for their train. I came back to Kaladhungi. Slept for night and came back to Bareilly the next day.


I would like to extend my gratitude to Rajesh & Sheela Panwar for this trip and my entire group Somnath Goswami, Pampa Mistry, Mr & Mrs Ganesh Rao. It was a lifetime experience .


I get to see 196 species of which 20 were my lifers. We explored the following hotspots during this trip. 





Feel free to reach me out for any help for planning Birdwatching in Uttarakhand.Also,  I would also like to know about your Birdwatching experience in Munsyari. My Contacts Details are below

1) Email - mohitmehta.pro@gmail.com
2) Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/mohitm13
3) Twitter Handle - @13mohitm


E-Bird Checklist Links


23-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S97957240

https://ebird.org/checklist/S97958531

https://ebird.org/checklist/S97963567

24-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S97992903

https://ebird.org/checklist/S97997745

25-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98036005

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98037570

26-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98074735

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98076829

27-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98121493

28-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98171293

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98174783

29-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98235037

30-Nov

https://ebird.org/checklist/S98271753